mooboy76 4 Report post Posted August 16, 2009 Well, this is my first post, so Hello! I'm glad I found a local forum! I'm going hunting for the first time this year. I plan on going out for Canada Goose this fall and deer a bit later. For the goose, I'm borrowing my father-in-law's Lakefield/Mossberg 500 that he picked up sometime in the seventies. I've heard about steel shot being bad for some older barrels and chokes, but I'm a bit confused as exactly how you can tell. Should I just assume that any of the barrels and chokes he has for it are not steel safe? Quote CSSA Member CCFR Member Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Millsy 0 Report post Posted August 16, 2009 Well, this is my first post, so Hello! I'm glad I found a local forum! I'm going hunting for the first time this year. I plan on going out for Canada Goose this fall and deer a bit later. For the goose, I'm borrowing my father-in-law's Lakefield/Mossberg 500 that he picked up sometime in the seventies. I've heard about steel shot being bad for some older barrels and chokes, but I'm a bit confused as exactly how you can tell. Should I just assume that any of the barrels and chokes he has for it are not steel safe? If it is a full choke it will be too restrictive because the steel shot does not compress like lead wihile passing through the choke. John Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mooboy76 4 Report post Posted August 16, 2009 If it is a full choke it will be too restrictive because the steel shot does not compress like lead wihile passing through the choke. John So as long as it's not a full choke, I can pick up some steel loads? Would the same go for some of the tungsten alloy loads too? I've only seen a couple types in town, but I'm curious. My wallet likes idea of using steel I was afraid I would have to use Bismuth, but I don't know if anyone in town carries it. Thanks for the quick reply Quote CSSA Member CCFR Member Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thefishleclair 174 Report post Posted August 20, 2009 So as long as it's not a full choke, I can pick up some steel loads? Would the same go for some of the tungsten alloy loads too? I've only seen a couple types in town, but I'm curious. My wallet likes idea of using steel I was afraid I would have to use Bismuth, but I don't know if anyone in town carries it. Thanks for the quick reply Ive used Steel out of my Rem 870 from the 70's...It bulges the end of the barrel a bit and turns your Full Choke to a Modified!! LOl I dont know but once ya ring a few threw it its Full Choke is toast.... Quote Grumpas' Baits Check it out on FB Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Monks 164 Report post Posted August 20, 2009 So as long as it's not a full choke, I can pick up some steel loads? Would the same go for some of the tungsten alloy loads too? I've only seen a couple types in town, but I'm curious. My wallet likes idea of using steel I was afraid I would have to use Bismuth, but I don't know if anyone in town carries it. Thanks for the quick reply I have shot steel out of my full choke wingmaster that is a 1980 model for 5 years now. Each year I took it in and got an OK from the gunsmith. I think you have to monitor how much you shoot. I changed the barrel this year as I hunt geese a lot and was getting worried about the barrel. A few hunts a year I would say you are OK. Steel shot is OK but not great. I use full body decoys and we rarely shoot geese out at 30 yds so steel is fine. Anymore and you will start hurting birds. I still use steel because we call in the birds to decoys to close range. Like any hunting though keep the end result in mind, a quick and humane harvest. Price should not be a concern if you are an ethical hunter. Think about it you spent how much on all your gear to save a few dimes on a bullet. We have a priveledge, so apreciate it. Others do not see it that way. Good Luck this fall Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AB 98 Report post Posted August 25, 2009 To back up the comment from Monks about price - it should be no object. When you do go to purchase steel shot shells, keep this in mind - speed kills! Purchase the highest velocity shot you can find. For waterfowl hunting, the minimum muzzle velocity should be 1450 fps. There are some premium brands of high velocity steel shot around town - Federal Black Cloud for instance. You can find less expensive shells from Kent Cartridge or Challenger that work well out to 35 yards. Personally, I shoot Challengers from SIR / Cabelas. Size 2 and BB's out of a 3" shell have been the end of many ducks and geese. I think Pritchards carries them, they should be about $15 to $16 bucks a box. ($13 bucks a box if you buy them in WPG and avoid shipping costs) Bring 'em in close and then "Take em!" Good Hunting! iceman Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mooboy76 4 Report post Posted August 25, 2009 I have shot steel out of my full choke wingmaster that is a 1980 model for 5 years now. Each year I took it in and got an OK from the gunsmith. I think you have to monitor how much you shoot. I changed the barrel this year as I hunt geese a lot and was getting worried about the barrel. A few hunts a year I would say you are OK. Steel shot is OK but not great. I use full body decoys and we rarely shoot geese out at 30 yds so steel is fine. Anymore and you will start hurting birds. I still use steel because we call in the birds to decoys to close range. Like any hunting though keep the end result in mind, a quick and humane harvest. Price should not be a concern if you are an ethical hunter. Think about it you spent how much on all your gear to save a few dimes on a bullet. We have a priveledge, so apreciate it. Others do not see it that way. Good Luck this fall Thanks for the insights. Maybe I'll take it in to get cleaned up and inspected first. From what I've been told, we're going to be shooting over decoys and maybe 15-20 yards away. I guess with the cost issue, I was mostly worried about range practice. If I was going to shoot with the bismuth or tungsten matrix on hunting day, then I figured I should be using that at the range too, and not just for patterning. Am I wrong about that? This is my first year hunting (both deer and geese) so I want to get in lots of range practice. It just seemed a bit daunting to spend $60-100 every week just on ammunition at the range, if I lump in the bismuth and tungsten stuff with the .303 ammo. I figured if I could shoot steel, I'd be more inclined to get out there and practice. On the other hand, I've cancelled curling this year so that I would have money to spend on hunting. Maybe I'm just cheap To back up the comment from Monks about price - it should be no object. When you do go to purchase steel shot shells, keep this in mind - speed kills! Purchase the highest velocity shot you can find. For waterfowl hunting, the minimum muzzle velocity should be 1450 fps. There are some premium brands of high velocity steel shot around town - Federal Black Cloud for instance. You can find less expensive shells from Kent Cartridge or Challenger that work well out to 35 yards. Personally, I shoot Challengers from SIR / Cabelas. Size 2 and BB's out of a 3" shell have been the end of many ducks and geese. I think Pritchards carries them, they should be about $15 to $16 bucks a box. ($13 bucks a box if you buy them in WPG and avoid shipping costs) Bring 'em in close and then "Take em!" Good Hunting! iceman Thanks for the tips! I'll take a look at Pritchards when I take the shotgun in for the cleaning/inspection (that's where I took my OTHER borrowed firearm, 1942 Lee-Enfield No1Mk4). There is so much selection, it can get a bit confusing for a beginner. Thanks again for the help everyone Quote CSSA Member CCFR Member Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Nonus Report post Posted August 25, 2009 You should practise with what you are going to use. Pattern the gun with what you are going to use, that way you can get a feel for it. If you are just going to be practising for aim then use cheap birdshot. As for getting your gun inspected it is pretty much up to you. You should have no problems shooting steel from a modern barrel and you can shoot your choke out but that will take time. If it is a screw in choke you can always get a steel specific choke and should last you even longer. Cleaning is easy as hell just buy a brass brush and a cotton swab. Get some good bore cleaner and go from there, look on youtube for cleaning shotguns there are a bunch of videos. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AB 98 Report post Posted August 26, 2009 There is a big difference in the performance of lead Vs steel shot related to speed and shot stringing properties. So practicing with what you are going to shoot in the field is likely cost prohibitive. A box of target loads is going to cost about $6, half the price of the cheapest steel shot you should carry in the field. However, the principles of wing shooting are the same no matter what gun you carry or what shot you shoot. You have to get the shot into the same space the target will be in, at the same time. Gravel pit shooting is fun, but getting the targets to fly the same all the time is tough. For a beginner to wing shooting, you need to learn how to swing the gun. Pratice makes perfect - If you want to learn how to hit the broad side of the barn door at 20- 30 yards, when the barn is flying, you should think about going out to the Thunder Bay Trap and Skeet club on a Tuedsay evening. Thursday evenings is for sporting clays - something to think about down the road once you get the basic idea. Pratice at a facility like the trap and skeet club means the targets will be more consistent and a easier to learn by repetition. I'm not sure what the range fees are for a round of 25 targets. There is always the possibility of a Stanley Burger, cold beverage and a lot of laughs to enjoy after shooting . Just note that there is a shot size restriction at the range - size 7 1/2 or smaller - essentially bird shot Have a Blast, iceman Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Nonus Report post Posted August 26, 2009 It is 5-10 bucks for a round, plus I think 5 bucks or something to show up. They sorta have a site but I can never remember the damn thing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mooboy76 4 Report post Posted August 26, 2009 There is a big difference in the performance of lead Vs steel shot related to speed and shot stringing properties. So practicing with what you are going to shoot in the field is likely cost prohibitive. A box of target loads is going to cost about $6, half the price of the cheapest steel shot you should carry in the field. However, the principles of wing shooting are the same no matter what gun you carry or what shot you shoot. You have to get the shot into the same space the target will be in, at the same time. Gravel pit shooting is fun, but getting the targets to fly the same all the time is tough. For a beginner to wing shooting, you need to learn how to swing the gun. Pratice makes perfect - If you want to learn how to hit the broad side of the barn door at 20- 30 yards, when the barn is flying, you should think about going out to the Thunder Bay Trap and Skeet club on a Tuedsay evening. Thursday evenings is for sporting clays - something to think about down the road once you get the basic idea. Pratice at a facility like the trap and skeet club means the targets will be more consistent and a easier to learn by repetition. I'm not sure what the range fees are for a round of 25 targets. There is always the possibility of a Stanley Burger, cold beverage and a lot of laughs to enjoy after shooting . Just note that there is a shot size restriction at the range - size 7 1/2 or smaller - essentially bird shot Have a Blast, iceman It is 5-10 bucks for a round, plus I think 5 bucks or something to show up. They sorta have a site but I can never remember the damn thing. I was actually out to a pit/range last week with a member of the Trap and Skeet Club. I was mostly trying to get used to the rifle, but he brought along a few of his shotguns to try too. He had some ancient clays, so we chucked them in the air by hand . I found the shotgun shooting to be a lot easier than shooting the Lee-Enfield and I think I was busting a good amount of clays considering I'd never shot before, but I do realise that they were slower and fairly close . He was thinking I should try Sporting Clays this Thursday, since it's the last one of the season. I'll probably borrow one of his shotguns again, unless I get around to looking at the Lakefield/Mossberg again before tomorrow. I plan on picking up a case of #7 1/2 Target Loads from GMK today or tomorrow too. I guess I should put the barrel on the Mossberg, clean it up, see how it cycles and then pick up a box each of various steel loads and see what patterns nicely with my setup. Thanks again, I'll let you know how the well or horrible the clay busting goes Quote CSSA Member CCFR Member Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mooboy76 4 Report post Posted September 1, 2009 Well, it didn't go as bad as I thought. I don't know what I got on the first round, but I scored 18 on the second one Not great, but good enough for my first time at Sporting Clays and second time shooting a shotgun. I'm going to pick up some steel loaded shells tomorrow and give'em a try at the range. Maybe even pick up some fancier stuff if I can find it. Thanks for all the advice. Quote CSSA Member CCFR Member Share this post Link to post Share on other sites