New Steelhead Fly Rod Advice

[Guest Wes]

Since I just broke my new float rod and was able to get my money back, I am in the market for a new fly rod. I had a spare float rod so I am good there.

Here is my problem. I know very little about fly rods and fly fishing in general. My last rod, I can't even tell you the weight or did I care. I just threw a spinning reel on and had at'er.

Now, however, I want to get a better system and focus on learning how to use it.

I am not looking for brands just info on weighting and what is best for steelhead. For instance I don't know the difference between a 4 weight and a 7 weight fly rod. When I get a rod do I need to match the weight when I buying a reel and line?

How long should I get? Something that will cover water size from the Cypress to the Nipigon would be what I am after. The other thing I am interested in is I want it to be able to handle steelhead.

[Guest TerryK]

Wes: You'll get as many opinions on rod selection as there are rods available so without causing an argument on who thinks what's better, I'll give you my OPINION on an ideal rod for our area.

If you want a good all-around rod that you can float fish with or toss lures, I'd suggest a 9-10 foot, medium action, 8-10 weight steelhead rod with ceramic or stainless guides. Snake guides are not the best to be running monofilament line through as they tend to were out with heavy use.

If you want a rod strictly for float fishing with a center pin reel, a 10-12 foot float rod will do the trick.

Personally, I like the versatility of the 10 foot med action rods. It makes it easy to switch back and forth from floats to lures and I find that anything longer than 10 feet makes lure casting a bit more difficult. Right now I am using a G-Loomis GL-3, 9'8" 6-12 wt with a 6 inch fighting butt added and as a backup I have my trusty (and crusty) G-Loomis IM-6, 9ft, 10wt with an 8 inch fighting butt added. I build my own rods to suit my style, that way I get the colors, the guides, the reel seat and the cork I like with no compromises.

Call me if you have any more questions!

edit: I just re-read your post and realized you specified a FLY rod. Please disregard my advice! lol

[Gone8to1248 158]

Wes

I found that when I deceied to get into fly fishing the equipment outthere was over welming to chose from. I went to the Pro's and asked for help in selectionand here is how I startted. Once we established what I wanted to do and the weight and action that would be needed, they had me cast with different BRANDS of rods using the same reel and line to see which one worked best for ME. Believe me when I say they all do cast different and the dollar amount doesn't control that. The dollar amount does control the warranty though. The better costly ones come with lifetime warrenties. Again as far as reels go, well they are there to hold line and need a good braking system. If your fishing for BIG fish that run a lot then you'll need a good brake that wont wear out right away. Yes the line does match the rod your using in order to load the rod while casting. There are conflicting stories about how much you can go up and down on line weight from the weight of the pole. Then again there are many different types of lines out there for different ways of fishing. You have everything from full floating lines to fast sinking tips and lines. You have single and double taper lines or weight forward to shooting head lines. Then you get into leaders and tippets! the lines are endless of what you can buy. The question really comes down to what is it YOU really need to fish for the species your after. The one thing I would recomend is to be sure to get a reel that you can extra spools for so you can carry different types of lines with you for a fast change over.

There are some very sharpe guys on line here that fish the rivers around Thunder Bay that can stear you in the right direction for the basic stuff to get. I would highly recomend contacting them and asking questions about it. Don't be afraid to ask anything as there are no dumb questions in this sport, only unasked ones. Good luck on your search and maybe I'll see you on the water. By the way they make the rods in different lengths for a reason. A 10 foot rod is no good if your wading a bush river with trees around you as compared to a 6 footer. The longer the rod the farther you will cast. For steelhead fishing it's more about the reach than it is about the casting. I found that out the hard way.

gone8to1248

[Castnblast 86]

Since I just broke my new float rod and was able to get my money back, I am in the market for a new fly rod. I had a spare float rod so I am good there.

Here is my problem. I know very little about fly rods and fly fishing in general. My last rod, I can't even tell you the weight or did I care. I just threw a spinning reel on and had at'er.

Now, however, I want to get a better system and focus on learning how to use it.

I am not looking for brands just info on weighting and what is best for steelhead. For instance I don't know the difference between a 4 weight and a 7 weight fly rod. When I get a rod do I need to match the weight when I buying a reel and line?

How long should I get? Something that will cover water size from the Cypress to the Nipigon would be what I am after. The other thing I am interested in is I want it to be able to handle steelhead.

Wes,

Rod Lenght:

- consider a 9.5 or 10 footer. As Bernie mentioned, the 10 footer gives you a bit more reach, allows for a more vertical presentation, and makes for a more effective "drag free drift" (if you are nymping with shot)

Rod Weight:

- I fish a 7, and it seems to be the best all round rod for me. There are times, with heavy fish, in heavy water that an 8 would provide better control of the fish but I prefer the 7 day in day out. A buddy of mine fishes an 8 and loves it. It's a nice rod with plenty of fish turning power.

The one other thing I like about a 7 weight is I find it a more comfortable rod for a long day of fishing.

You do have to work a bit harder to load an 8 weight.

6 weight can be fun once the levels drop, but somewhat insufficiant during peak flows.

One rod to cover the Cyp to the Nip is alot to ask. If big water is a big part of the program - go 8.

Reel:

- Get the best one you can afford with a quality disc or conical drag, and try to match it to the line weight of the rod.

Large arbour is best for steelhead. They hold alot of line/backing and retrieve it the quickest.

Line:

- match the line weight to the rod, and if anything, bump up the line weight one stop. ie: 8 weight line on a 7 rod. It is a little easier to cast/manipulate with a stepped up line -(Again, assuming you'll be nymphing)

Many steelheaders fish a running line, with a simple tapered leader and a small slinky set up.

It works like crazy, especially in high water, but it is a bummer to lob lead all day on a fly line.

The other option is a straight ahead weight forward, or a specialty nymphing line which will help to turn over shot or heavy flys. Either way, the goal is to use the very least amount of lead possible for the water you are fishing.

If you are bumping bottom steady, lighten up. It interups the drift of the fly. You only need to glide through the run, and tick bottom very seldom - and often times it's better not to touch bottom at all.

Depends on the nature and temp of the water, and the mood of the fish.

... One thing is for sure, the more you fish, and the less lead you use, the more you'll enjoy fishing a fly line.

Just my thoughts. Good luck with the steel/gear.

cnbb

[grumpy 2]

My next fly rod is going to be a 12' spey 6 or 7wt.

I have an 11'6" st Croix float rod and an Islander center pin for sale that has hardly been used.

If anyone wants it send me a PM and we can negotiate a price.

[Guest Wes]

I googled this topic last night and found lots of good info, but the ifo you guys provided is great. Thanx a bunch. I think I may try and build a rod. Cyp to Nip I know is a big range to cover, it was worth a shot.

I think I am going to go with a #6 blank.

My current fly setup I am unsure of the weight. The reel is about 30 years old. It was my fathers. It works but no drag just a clicker. It is more of a challenge to land fish without a drag. I had two lines. A floating line and I think the other is a 'Shooting line???

The shooting line I was using for steelhead in the spring and I did quite well with it. One thing I did notice, my little sally arms were sure tired after a day of fishing. I went to D&R and asked them to set me up with the proper line for steelhead, so maybe it is matched well, who knows.

So after I build the rod and get a reel to match, then I guess I can start asking about lines.

Thanx guyz!

[grumpy 2]

Wes,

Rod Lenght:

- consider a 9.5 or 10 footer. As Bernie mentioned, the 10 footer gives you a bit more reach, allows for a more vertical presentation, and makes for a more effective "drag free drift" (if you are nymping with shot)

Rod Weight:

- I fish a 7, and it seems to be the best all round rod for me. There are times, with heavy fish, in heavy water that an 8 would provide better control of the fish but I prefer the 7 day in day out. A buddy of mine fishes an 8 and loves it. It's a nice rod with plenty of fish turning power.

The one other thing I like about a 7 weight is I find it a more comfortable rod for a long day of fishing.

You do have to work a bit harder to load an 8 weight.

6 weight can be fun once the levels drop, but somewhat insufficiant during peak flows.

One rod to cover the Cyp to the Nip is alot to ask. If big water is a big part of the program - go 8.

Reel:

- Get the best one you can afford with a quality disc or conical drag, and try to match it to the line weight of the rod.

Large arbour is best for steelhead. They hold alot of line/backing and retrieve it the quickest.

Line:

- match the line weight to the rod, and if anything, bump up the line weight one stop. ie: 8 weight line on a 7 rod. It is a little easier to cast/manipulate with a stepped up line -(Again, assuming you'll be nymphing)

Many steelheaders fish a running line, with a simple tapered leader and a small slinky set up.

It works like crazy, especially in high water, but it is a bummer to lob lead all day on a fly line.

The other option is a straight ahead weight forward, or a specialty nymphing line which will help to turn over shot or heavy flys. Either way, the goal is to use the very least amount of lead possible for the water you are fishing.

If you are bumping bottom steady, lighten up. It interups the drift of the fly. You only need to glide through the run, and tick bottom very seldom - and often times it's better not to touch bottom at all.

Depends on the nature and temp of the water, and the mood of the fish.

... One thing is for sure, the more you fish, and the less lead you use, the more you'll enjoy fishing a fly line.

Just my thoughts. Good luck with the steel/gear.

cnbb

Great advice,

Wes go with the:

8-wt

a large arbour real with and extra spool

Nymphing line and a quad tip line.

Now if you go this route stick with it don't do anything else. There is no use carrying 3 rods around with you all day.

Better advise might be to purchase a 10' medium to fast action spinning rod and fish that all day its more versitile. After all you have not caught a steelhead yet why invest a G-note on flyfishing equipement when you are not catching any.

Grumpy

[Guest Wes]

Better advise might be to purchase a 10' medium to fast action spinning rod and fish that all day its more versitile. After all you have not caught a steelhead yet why invest a G-note on flyfishing equipement when you are not catching any.

Grumpy

I think your mis-informed Grumpy. I have caught plenty of steelhead, just not last weekend. I am not a complete newbie at fly fishing, I just don't know a lot about the equipment and such. I just had some stuff and used it to the best of my ability. Now, however, I would like to fine tune my skills and get better equipment.

[grumpy 2]

I googled this topic last night and found lots of good info, but the ifo you guys provided is great. Thanx a bunch. I think I may try and build a rod. Cyp to Nip I know is a big range to cover, it was worth a shot.

I think I am going to go with a #6 blank.

My current fly setup I am unsure of the weight. The reel is about 30 years old. It was my fathers. It works but no drag just a clicker. It is more of a challenge to land fish without a drag. I had two lines. A floating line and I think the other is a 'Shooting line???

The shooting line I was using for steelhead in the spring and I did quite well with it. One thing I did notice, my little sally arms were sure tired after a day of fishing. I went to D&R and asked them to set me up with the proper line for steelhead, so maybe it is matched well, who knows.

So after I build the rod and get a reel to match, then I guess I can start asking about lines.

Thanx guyz!

6wt is too light you are going to break the rod. Buy a manufactured rod when you break it will be replaced within 2-weeks. If you make your own the warantee could be voided or you will just get a blank back. I have broken 7wt's pulling too hard on north shore steelhead in high waters good luck with a 6wt.

[Guest Wes]

hmm 7wt broken, I think I'll keep that in mind Grumpy. But I still want to try and build. I've always wanted to try it, and now that I have a need and some extra money, why not. + winter is coming and I don't ice fish so I'll have time as well.

[Guest TerryK]

Great advise guys. I agree the 8 wt is the way to go. You need the power of at least an 8 for out fast moving streams. It's hard enough to turn a fish on the Jackpine without being underpowered! lol

Wes I sent you an extensive PM on rod building.

grumpy you have a pm as well.